The other corner of Europe: Istanbul

Photo: Istanbul, Turkey - 16/07/10

Once my visas for Azerbaijan and Iran were arranged I could finally really move out. I should aim in between the two compass needles of the South and the East, however at this moment I couldn't really be bothered to look at the compass (my brother gave it as a present before leaving) as I allowed my captain, flying for blu express, control the integrated compass of this airbus a320, which by the way urgently requires a re-make-over according to the latest fashion. I could send a letter with some photos to 'MTV's pimp my flight' and guaranteed Xzibit will be impressed by it's current state.
After two hours or so we reached the cloudless sky of Istanbul and the captain made the airbus touch ground safely, under the sounds of a loud applause reminding me I was accompanied with many tourist aboard.
From the airport well outside the city there were a few bus lines and I got on bus #10 bringing us to the Asian part of Istanbul city. The public transport of Istanbul has a handy system for regular travelers. It is comparable with the magnetic or chip card system which is frequently used in metros. Only in this case the travelers are not provided with a card but with a key ring. People who have been to a laser game might remember using some plastic key with a piece of metal they had to click into their laser gun in order to 'personalize' the gun to your own name in order to score points when hitting targets. This very same plastic key ring is being used in the public transport of Istanbul. For the people who do not have the key, the bus driver has a spare key to use for your single ride. But it is só integrated, that when you tell the driver where you want to go, he gives you the key(pre-programmed) and you have to click the key into the reader and give the key back to the driver straight away. I did not completely understand that each passenger has to click it himself while the reader was right in between the bus driver in you. Would it not be much easier, quicker and more convenient if the driver just clicks it himself straight away? Maybe that is a little too straight forward but I like this possibly unique system by using sources available on the market rather then re-inventing the wheel.

Once arrived at the river in the center of Istanbul on the Asian part, I had no clue where I had to go, which direction to aim for or whatever transport to use next. Take another bus? Walk? Perhaps a boat across the river, where the huge mosques proudly showed it's convincing bold shapes above all the houses by which the mosque was surrounded, while built a few steps up the mountain.
Before, while on the bus I noticed an Italian guy my age playing with a 1 year old daughter of a muslim couple. The Italian guy seemed traveling alone who was actually on the same flight as I was.
Once arrived and off the bus I started speaking to him in the hope he knew a bit about directions and perhaps he could be of any help and I could practice my Italian a little further. Actually Allesandro, the Italian guy, appeared to be the brother of the father of the young daughter. Understood? The baby was Allesandro's little niece. His brother had been to Istanbul and told me I could take a boat to the other side of the strait and from there take a tram to Sultanahmed, quite close to hostel 'Istanbul' for which I had a reservation.
First we had a drink and some food at a terras at the river-side. The brother of Allesandro made us taste Ayran, some sort of yoghurt-milk drink. Liquid yoghurt but a little less sour, so drinkable :)
Once finished we took a boot to cross the strait, connecting the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea, so I could continue my search to the hostel. I could take a tram but first I had to find out which tram and in which direction. The beautiful thing was that they had a map with the tram system of Istanbul. And, smart enough they hang the map ON the platform and to get to the platform you had to go through to gates for which you had to buy a coin, a beautiful plastic coin, with the chance to find out that you are at the wrong platform or wrong tram station and your coin is gone....what to do! I found that this was the correct station. Unfortunately I cannot remember exactly how but I probably asked a local person, and I can remember I was talking Italian to three Spanish girls doing their utter-best buying this monopoly coin in which they failed. I tried to help them but I think they have been listening to too many 'annoyance stories' about Istanbul which are not true at all, and the girls didn't trust anyone approaching them to help getting that coin while they were causing a huge queue in front of the coin dispenser. Anyway I got my coin, left them struggling a little longer, and got on the tram (there is by the way only one tram line at that stop so it was impossible to get on the wrong tram:) )
I had to go a few stops and then find out where to walk. There were big and clear maps of the city and a close-up of the area in which you are so it was fairly easy to find which direction to go. Perfect! Exactly what you need if you are with a heavy bag at noon in the burning hot sun in a warm city! So I started walking and obviously I walked exactly in the wrong direction arriving at the next tram stop. Annoyed I turned around, walked all the way back found my way and I arrived fine. So nice because one moment you're getting angry of everything, walking completely wasted with heavy bags in the burning sun, the next moment I was sitting in the room meeting a nice couple from Canada with who I spent the rest of the evening and then there was Billy from Indiana, US! Such a great guy to have a big laugh with! So together we had some drinks and sensitive discussions started by the Canadians and I became sorry for Billy because it was about the US and these Canadians didn't like the US so much, though they loved their own Canada!
By the way, another little story about coincidence. Just before I met this couple from Canada, there were two Dutch girl in the same room. I spoke with them, found out where they are from, and actually they live in the same city as my best friend, they go to the same university as him. One of the girls actually knew him! But no not because of living in the same city, not because of the same uni. She knew him because her father was in the same uni as my friend's father! And now they go to the same uni and they didn't even know!

The next day I spent walking around with Billy first getting a breakfast and learning the first words in Turkish. Merhaba Abe translated to hello brother. After breakfast we headed for the Grand Bazar where we were looking for a Dutch soccer shirt or scarf as a present for Billy's brother as they are big supporters of the Orange team. I ended up buying the soccer shirt of German Shalke04 but only because the sponsor is Gazprom! Gazprom, the russian energy company actually tried to buy Shalke04. Literally trying to buy a football club just because they wanted to be bigger friends with German bundeskanzeler Schröder, and to show their power obviously. It was the second monopoly step to become the energy leader of the German market, putting themselves into the monopoly position in Germany, and later all of western Europe. But they failed buying the football club as the German league found it a German football club and not a Russian one. And by the way Gazprom already owned their football club at home in Russia.
Back to Billy, he wanted to buy the orange shirt because he and actually his whole family at home supports Holland big time!

Photo: Billy from Indiana,US - 15/07/10

The grand bazar in Istanbul is a big market with a roof. Basically it is an indoor market with many little shops. You could say it is a modern medina from Morocco.
The big difference here in Istanbul is, although equally friendly and approachable, the Turkish are much more natural friendly. In Morocco it is all about money and business, no money, no friendship. Very fake in Morocco.

did I already mention how much I enjoy Gazprom? See this photo which I took at a monastery in Armenia. A little church which is being renovated, with help of Gazprom haha
The second photo, well no explanation required :)

Photo: Dilijan, Armenia - 31/07/10

Photo: Farsan, Iran - 11/08/10

After shopping we tried to get out and after what felt like three rounds at the same places (dejavu from the medina in Fez, Morocco where I walked three or four times the same round of 30 minutes every time without noticing I was walking the same alleys, so different is every centimeter.
On the end we found an exit, got out and tried to find where we were and walked in what seemed to me the best direction due to the hour and the place of the sun, the natural compass, and only to find out that we left the grand bazar, obviously, on the wrong side! But that was ok because now we saw a little Istanbul of the not touristy bit.

My first impression of the city was very very positive. A lot of different sceneries, three different areas separated by a river.
The atmosphere was very pleasant, warm and comfy. Everything seemed very touristy but at the same time very relaxed, no fake feelings in friendliness of shopkeepers which so many times come together with tourism. The people leave you doing your thing and don't try to have this verbal judo game with you(See: What they know about the world). Yes, I discovered a new location and straight away it came on my list of places I like and where I want to come back (yes, that is a big compliment!).

In the evening in the hostel I met Gorgio, another Italian guy. Yes I think I can give my trip the theme of Italy! This country keeps chasing me and holds me in it's grip as if I fell deep into the boot of Italy (as the shape of the country demonstrates on any map) from which I cannot walk out anymore. It must be the Sicilian mafia keeping me from hiding in a different country. Or maybe the ones from Calabria. Salvatore, can you do something?? Mbare united! Maybe a bem bem bo-lem-bem on il chitarre!
Anyway, so in the evening Georgio and I went to the bridge to eat some fresh fish. The bridge with all the restaurants and bars underneath. A very pleasant place to hang out with your cocktail!! Such a great a great atmosphere in the evening. A real pleasure!

The next day I spent some more time discovering the old part of Istanbul by walking around in the heat. I went to the bus station where I got myself a bus ticket for the night bus to Göreme and went back to the hostel for some more relaxing and talking with Giorgio. His plan for that night? Take a night bus to... yes also to Göreme.

To be continued...